The striking-looking North has her own theory on why high-profile women gravitate to Dugan’s designs. “When women wear his clothes, they look better than they did before,” she says. “It’s been my experience that the clothes are flattering and empowering to the wearer. They give her a certain authority that makes her feel secure.”

Dugan and North, who was a former Wilhelmina model, met during the Seventies at Pratt Institute, where North was studying fashion merchandising and Dugan was immersed in fashion design. The two became good friends while spending time at Andy Warhol’s Factory with the decade’s “beautiful people” (including Loulou dela Falaise and Berry Berenson, who introduced Dugan to Halston). Says North of those halcyon days, “It was truly exciting, and it changed my point of view forever. I’m so grateful to have had those experiences.”

Longtime client and New York socialite Suzanna Sabet recently wore one of Dugan’s designs to a gala. “I’ve never had so many compliments in one evening!” she says. “My lilac chiffon dress from Bill looked so graceful and alluring. I felt great wearing it!”

A typical W.S. Dugan client is a woman of substance and style. “She’s an extremely busy person,” says North, before Dugan chimes in with, “She’s an executive who has to look well and has zero time to make it happen.”

“I’ve noticed a new awareness among the younger set about this kind of service. At first, these young ladies thought that looking your best was something your mother wanted you to do. Now, they recognize that Mother knew best,” Dugan continues.

North adds, “When the younger clients come here, they respond to the product. They can’t find things they’d love to have in stores any more!”

“I consider Bill’s clothes timeless, and they’re perfect year-round for Houston’s climate,” says Texan Mary Gracely, who’s currently working with Dugan to create a custom gown for a charity gala for the Crohn’s & Colitis Foundation that she’ll chair in January.

With prices beginning at $900, W.S. Dugan is clearly not for everyone—which is the point. “Our clients come to us because they want to look different,” says North. “They don’t want to see someone else who looks just like them when they go to a party or an important affair.”

Their clients also insist on terrific service. “They become part of the creative process here,” the designer says. “Once they decide on something, if they don’t like the color or the fabric—or if they want to change the neckline or add sleeves—we can do all that. Clients that know what really works for them love that part of the experience. We’re able to guide the ones that are less sure.”

A complete set of measurements is taken at a client’s first appointment. Fabric choices are also discussed (the house uses the finest Italian and French silks and cashmeres). A “silhouette” is chosen, and a “muslin” is created. “If it’s a rush, we cut right from the fabric,” says the always-obliging designer.

Shortly afterward comes the first fitting. The entire process—from first appointment to delivery of the finished garment—takes, on average, four to six weeks.

Although his collections come out twice a year, Dugan often helps clients create custom pieces (for example, one-of-a-kind wedding dresses) from original sketches. “I love working one-on-one,” he says.

Right now, among the designer’s Spring 2003 Collection’s most sought-after items are an impeccably tailored reversible silk/satin double-faced jacket that works as well over pants as it does with the designer’s matte jersey evening dresses and ultra-feminine organza shirts (in a stunning array of colors). “These pieces are perfect for this season—but they’ll be totally appropriate for many seasons to come,” says Dugan. “That’s the theme we really follow: creating things that go on.”

The designer is particularly proud of his silk denim pantsuits that can go from “day” to “dinner” with a simple change of accessories. “It’s a fantastic fabric,” he proclaims.

It’s obvious, from watching Dugan present his new collection, how satisfying it is for him to help a woman look her best. “It’s wrong when you see the clothes before you see the woman,” he says. “Clothes should never overpower her! I always make sure that a woman’s unique style and beauty shine through.”