best of bubblies

Champagne, that magical creation, defines luxury, the very essence of celebration and indulgence. Extravagance to some, for others it's a necessity. Legend has it Napoleon lost the battle of Waterloo because his supply lines to the Champagne cellars at Epernay were cut and he was reduced to drinking Belgium beer—for want of a flute of Champagne, an empire was lost.

I call Champagne "the affordable luxury" because a split can cost as little as $8 to $10 and provide a lovely toast for two. It's undeniable the marvelous bubbly has been part of many tales of exuberant excess. Who can forget the image of Marilyn Monroe lounging in a Champagne bubble bath—pink bubbles, pink candlelight, pink bathroom—her tub filled with pink Champagne? She claimed it did wonders for her skin and her spirits. King Edward VII of England reputedly had an eye for the prettily turned ankles (and other parts) of the ballet dancers at Covent Garden. Apparently he showed his interest in meeting a dancer by asking for one of her ballet slippers and drinking Champagne from it.

One Palm Beach socialite wanted to impress her friends so much she installed a Champagne fountain where guests could fill their flutes. And a woman in Chicago was so fond of Veuve Clicquot she had the interior of her Rolls Royce done entirely in the black and orange of her favorite Champagne label!

As a Texan born and bred, I can testify we indeed do things in a big way. My favorite Texas extravagance is a friend with a private bowling alley in his house. For his annual Christmas party he replaces bowling pins with Champagne bottles. The guest who hits a "Champagne strike" gets a case of Champagne every month for a year. Another Texan friend has a bar in his house that serves Champagne on tap. Needless to say, his house is the most popular in Houston.

Birthdays, anniversaries, holidays, and especially weddings are perfect occasions to indulge in Champagne extravagance. If you really want to send an impressive gift, offer a Nebuchadnezzar—or 20 bottles of Champagne. Or go for broke and make it a Sovereign—36 bottles. Need some help making your selection? Here are my five top picks:

1. Veuve Clicquot "Yellow Label" Reims
The "in" Champagne of the moment: predominantly Pinot Noir grapes with a crisp, full-bodied style. Clean and balanced! $29.99-41.95 Sherry-Lehmann/Garnet

2. Champagne Pol Roger, Epernay, France
Winston Churchill's favorite Champagne, a real sleeper! A floral Champagne, medium-bodied, with a long stylish finish. $21.95-27.95 Sherry-Lehmann/Garnet

3. Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne 1995
A silky, elegant, well-balanced Champagne. Full-bodied, offering subtle complex accents of toasted almond to complement its fruit. $99.95-110.00 Sherry-Lehmann/Morrell

4. Champagne Piper Heidsieck Reims Baby Piper
A split of Champagne (1 1/2 glasses): Medium-bodied, well-balanced and lively, fruity with hints of summer apple and pear. Excellent price value! A great holiday gift to give by the case. $7.99-8.99 Sherry-Lehmann/Garnet/Morrell

5. Champagne Jacquart-Reims
Brut Mosaique Cuvee is the flagship of the house. A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 15% Pinot Meunier. Aged three years in the cellar. $24.95-29.95 Morrell/Garnet


Rosemary Zraly, "The Champagne Lady," is the author of Champagne… Uncorked! The Insider's Guide to Champagne, as well as featured on her own radio show "Champagne & Chefs." Visit her at: www.champagnelady.com


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